Most termiticides
are not as stable in most soils as termiticides which
were manufactured prior to 1989. Chloronated hydrocarbon
insecticdes (termiticdes) like chlordane, aldrin, lindane, etc.
were known to have tremendous stability in soils and lasted a lot longer than the present termiticides.
The same qualities
which made them good termiticides also made them environmentally
unsafe. Chlordane got the bad reputation from wide misuse and was taken off the market in the USA.
There are several different insecticides used by pest control operators for soil treatment for termites currently. All are safe and effective when used according to label directions. The insecticides remain effective in the soil for approximately 5 to 10 years. Each product has slight advantages and disadvantages.
The table below list some of the commonly used termiticides and the manufacturers.
Effective termite treatments require a great volume of termiticide. For example, a single-story house that is 1200 sq. ft. (40' x 30') can require 112 gallons of diluted termiticide just to treat the soil along the foundation walls (inside and out). The total gallons needed may exceed 150 gallons depending upon the construction of the house.
by Barb Ogg, PhD, Extension Educator, Lancaster County Extension Office and
Dennis Ferraro, Extension Educator, Douglas County Extension Office, talks about the amount of termiticide needed to do the job correctly.
The physical and chemical nature of your soil surrounding your home can impact
the effectiveness of the chemicals stability with respect to time.
Soil clay content, pH, Organic matter content, particularly organic carbon content
will greatly influence the rate of break down of the termiticide in soil.
You can consult your local land grant-extension entomologist to evaluate your soil. Soil samples can be inexpensive, some may be free, allowing you a more informed choice.
Baiting for termites, although
generally more expensive, may be a better alternative.
For an excellent article: , by Shripat T. Kamble Extension Specialist, Univ. of Nebraska,covers the different soil conditions affecting current termiticides.
RETURN TO TOP
CONTROLLING TERMITES: WITH LIQUID TERMITICIDES - TRADITIONAL / BARRIER TREATMENTS
1.
PRE TREATMENT: for PRE CONSTRUCTION TERMITE TREATMENT OF STRUCTURES.
Homes and other buildings can be pretreated at the time of construction to protect them against termite attack.
All exposed wood can be treated easily with , it will last the life of the wood.
Foundational walls and piers:
After the footings are poured and the foundational walls and /or
piers have been constructed, apply the termiticide such as , or
to a trench in the soil about 12 inches wide and 6 inches
deep adjacent to the foundation.
Soil on both sides of the exposed foundational walls and soil surrounding should be soaked down to the foundation footing at the labelled rate.
Apply at the diluted rate. Poured in with a watering can or bucket is easier than using a sprayer.
No need to dig the trench any deeper than the top of the footing.
Soil at the bottom of the trench can be loosened with a spade or iron bar to allow further penetration.
For outside basement walls (where the footing is deep) most pest control operators apply the chemical by injecting it along the foundation through a hollow rod attached at the end of the hose in place of a soil nozzle. This is called "rodding". The result is a continuous chemical barrier from footing to surface.
This should be applied to both the inside and outside of the foundation and also around piers, chimney bases,pipes,conduits,and other structures in contact to the soil.
Use at the rate of 4 gallons per 10 linear feet. The diluted termiticide should be mixed in with the soil, as it replaced.
Slabs:
Types of slabs:
For effective pretreatment termite proofing, much of the chemical
barrier needs to put under the concrete slabs. Obviously it is easier
to put out the barrier termite treatment BEFORE a slab has been poured. After
it has been poured, it will need to be drilled and a chemical injected
under the slab to seal off termite entry points. This is not a "do it
yourself project".
Apply a diluted termiticide such as , or at
the rate of 1 gallon per 10 sq. feet, covering the square footage.
Along both sides of the foundational walls and interior foundational
walls and plumbing, apply this diluted rate at the rate of 4 gallons
per 10 linear feet.
A hooked up to your sprayer, makes this job a lot
easier.
2. POST CONSTRUCTION TERMITE TREATMENT OF STRUCTURES:
A thorough inspection is the first and most important step. Calling in a professional pest control service may be necessary, as their experience
can locate the specific areas in
your structure where termite attack is likely to occur.
Basement construction
may require treatment which injects termiticides into the soil through holes drilled in
the basement floor at regular intervals.
Crawl space treatment
also involves trenching or rodding soil along the foundation walls and around piers and
pipes, then applying termiticides to the soil.
Dig narrow trenches along both the inside and outside of foundation walls and around piers and chimney bases,applied at the rate of 4 gal. per 10 linear feet.
Also be sure to trench and treat around sewer pipes, conduits and all other structural members in contact with the soil.
The trench should be as deep as the top of the footing.
Mix the termiticide with the soil as it is replaced.
The
State regulations differ state to state on treatment and drilling activity required.
Other Termite Problems:
In certain areas of the country you may encounter different types of termites, such as
Formosan, dampwood, drywood, etc. If your home is infested with one of these termites, it
may require different or more extensive treatment procedures including wood treatment and
fumigation.
CONSTRUCTION CONSIDERATIONS - TERMITE CONTROL
Changing the soil along the foundation such as digging or removal of treated soil can encourage termites to your home.
Disturbing the termite treatment may void any termite warranty that you may have on your home.
An excellent article about renovations and home construction by
Michael Waldvogel, North Carolina
Entomology Extension Specialist, can be found at :
RETURN TO TOP
WOOD TERMITE TREATMENTS
WOOD TERMITE TREATMENTS:
Treating the wood is an alternative to soil treatments.
However, it must be emphasized that these "spot" treatments on the wood is not a complete termite treatment in that it will not stop the termites from attacking the wood in other areas.
One treatment option uses the chemical disodium octaborate tetrahydrate (DOT). Common ones are and
Both products are borax based and must be applied to untreated wood . Important areas for treatments could be in the crawlspace and parts of the framing in a house under construction.
Data provided by product manufacturers indicate that termites do not extend their tubes over treated wood nor do they cause any structural damage.
RETURN TO TOP
TERMITE BAITING KITS - SAVE
MONEY! 
